Greece’s wines seem to be finding fans stateside lately, at long last; US imports are up 81% in the past 10 years. You have to wonder why, having been making wines for literal millennia, the Greeks have taken so long to gain this foothold. I’m quick to blame Retsina, the iconic style that involves adding pine resin to the must during fermentation and then skimming off the oils before bottling. It’s a cool idea and a fun tradition (it is said they started adding the pine resin to gross out the plundering Romans) but the resin became a mask for inferior grapes & winemaking, and the wines became cheap and volatile and frankly very Pine-Sol-like. And that’s how many of us came to know Greek wines.
Anyhow, local grapes and traditional winemaking are flourishing now, and we have a bunch. Including a (very good) Retsina. Collect them all!